Pisco Argentino vs Chile & Peru
by Khemngern Tonsakulrungruang + Victor Carrasco (research) for Andes Wines
The decades-long battle between Chile and Peru over the origin of Pisco — a national pride and a cultural cornerstone for both nations — has shown no signs of slowing up. The legal, political and emotional tug-of-war over this grape-based spirit has consumed immense resources yet remains unresolved after more than 25 years. Meanwhile, Argentina, the winemaking powerhouse from the other side of the Andes, is making its own subtle entrance onto the Pisco scene.
Mónica Rodríguez, the creative force behind Casa Tapaus in Mendoza, has crafted a uniquely Argentine take on classic Pisco. While Chile and Peru lock horns in their disputes, her creation stands poised to disrupt and potentially reshape the landscape of this fiercely protected spirit.
In a departure from tradition, Casa Tapaus uses the aromatic Torrontés grape — Argentina’s signature white varietal — instead of the indigenous grapes that define both Peruvian and Chilean Piscos, such as Quebranta, Negra Criolla and various members of the Muscat family. Torrontés, with its intensely floral and citrusy profile, adds a new layer of complexity to the spirit. Double distillation is employed to accentuate these vibrant aromas and flavours, creating a Pisco that is clearly distinct from its fellow Latin American counterparts.
The Millán family, owners of Casa Tapaus, take pride in this innovative spirit which stands apart from both Peruvian and Chilean styles. Peruvian Pisco is known for its strict adherence to tradition, showcasing the purity of the grapes and the unaged, unaltered nature of the distillate. Chilean Pisco, on the other hand, leans toward innovation, often aged in oak barrels to develop a warmer, spicier and more complex profile.
As the legal wrangling between Peru and Chile continues to escalate, many opportunities for collaboration and shared growth in the Pisco industry have been squandered. The endless disputes over a single word ‘Pisco’ have drained resources that could have been better invested in innovation and market development. In contrast, Argentina’s quiet entry into the Pisco world through Casa Tapaus represents a more constructive approach, embracing the potential for differentiation rather than conflict.
With its Torrontés-driven profile and refined distillation techniques, Andes Wines has learned that Argentine Pisco could become a new player in the global spirits market, offering a fresh take on a South American classic. If only the differences in style and origin could be viewed as strengths rather than threats, perhaps Pisco could evolve into a symbol of diversity and innovation, rather than a source of contention.
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