Seeking bottle closure … the cork vs screw cap battle rages on by Fran Bridgewater FCIM
By Francesca Bridgewater FCIM Chartered Marketer
In this weekend’s article for the Financial Times: https://tinyurl.com/jancisclosuresdebate, Jancis Robinson MW OBE deftly revisits the enduring debate surrounding wine bottle closures and their relative merits. Her exploration of the evolving choices between, in particular, Diam natural corks and screw caps brings to light some of the key considerations both winemakers and consumers face, namely: wine preservation, quality consistency, sustainability and perception.
Wine Preservation and Quality Consistency
Robinson notes that screwcaps are widely accepted in academic wine circles for their ability to «eliminate the variation in natural corks,» allowing winemakers to ensure that «the wine the consumer encounters is exactly the same as what was originally put in the bottle.” Thus, the crux of the closure conundrum lies in how each method affects a wine’s longevity and character.
Diam corks, celebrated for their technological innovation, are understood to eliminate cork taint (TCA contamination) thereby ensuring consistent oxygen transmission rates (OTR). These ‘engineered’ natural corks allow winemakers to depend on steady and infinitesimally small, controlled oxygen ingress, which in turns promotes optimal ageing and maintains sensory characteristics. Studies affirm that wines sealed with Diam often better preserve their intended flavour profiles over time. Yet, as in many aspects of wine, the nuanced truth is, «it depends.»
Conversely, the near-hermetic seal of screw cap closures significantly limits oxygen ingress, making this method ideal for wines intended for early consumption. Their efficacy in preserving freshness and vibrancy is undisputed, though wines designed to age may suffer from reductive qualities due to minimal oxygen exposure. As Jancis aptly notes, the wine world thrives on complexities and closure choices are no exception.
Sustainability
From a sustainability perspective, Diam corks carry an inherent advantage. Derived from natural cork, they undergo an eco-friendly process that removes impurities, including TCA, while retaining the renewable aspects of cork material. The cork industry itself supports biodiversity and combats desertification in cork oak forests, aligning with broader environmental goals.
Screw caps, typically made from aluminium, raise more environmental concerns. Their production and recycling are energy-intensive, resulting in a higher carbon footprint compared to cork closures. For a sector increasingly scrutinised for its ecological impact, this distinction matters.
In her article «How green is your stopper?» (https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/how-green-your-stopper), Robinson observes that screwcaps are «widely accepted by those Scandinavians who buy their wine in bottles rather than the space-saving boxes that are so popular there.»
Consumer Perception
Consumer attitudes toward closures are evolving but remain rooted in tradition. Natural corks, including Diam’s enhanced versions, are synonymous with quality and heritage. Diam corks’ natural appearance and performance reinforce these associations, even if the technical distinctions are largely lost on consumers.
Screw caps, while gaining traction, especially for wines meant for immediate consumption, still face residual biases. Robinson points out that «Brits have also become well used to screwcaps,» especially since a significant portion of still wines arriving in the UK are sealed this way. Admittedly, some demographics equate screw caps with lower-quality wines, however this perception is shifting over time as more premium producers continue to adopt them.
Perceived Wisdom on Ageing Wines
The insights shared by Libération Tardive Foundation www.liberation-tardive.org (co-founded by industry stalwarts Christopher Burr MW, David Pinchard, Dominic Buckwell, James Belton and Andes Wines’ own Fran Bridgewater FCIM with founding father Dr Enno Lippold of Mosel) offer yet another dimension to the debate, particularly concerning the extended ageing of wines. The specialist team at the not-for-profit (as featured in JancisRobinson.com: The rewards of patience | Jancis Robinson and Château Grillet – the Artémis effect | Jancis Robinson) emphasise that closures can be seen to significantly influence the development of a wine’s tertiary aromas over extended periods.
The organisation infers that while screw caps are acknowledged to impede oxidation, which can lead to reductive characteristics, naturally sustainable cork closures by their very nature strike a delicate balance by allowing controlled oxygen ingress over time. This measured exposure supports the gradual evolution of complex aromas, aligning with the nuanced ageing requirements of fine wines. Such perspectives underscore the importance of closure selection in crafting wines intended for prolonged cellaring, as the mantra underscores ‘great wines take time.’
Balancing Innovation, Sustainability, and Market Expectations
Ultimately, the choice between natural corks and screw caps reflects a balance of priorities. Naturally regenerative cork offers a harmonious synthesis of tradition and innovation, ensuring quality through controlled oxygen ingress while supporting sustainability drives for the planet at large. Whereas, screw caps deliver unmatched consistency and oxidation ‘protection’, particularly for youthful wines, although their limited oxygen exposure may influence ageing trajectories over the medium to longer term.
As Robinson concludes for the FT, “there is no clear-cut answer” and “contrary to received wisdom, screwcaps may just be superior to natural corks for red wines”, which is quite a revelation, in itself.
“It is fair to say that winemakers must weigh up both the ageing potential of their wines and the expectations of their target markets when making an informed decision on the matter” summarises Max Morales, CEO of Andes Wines. Closure selection, like winemaking itself, is an art form as much as a science — a nuanced decision in a world that prizes balance, elegance and depth of character.
Written by By Francesca Bridgewater FCIM Chartered Marketer
andes@andeswines.com
